After the abolition of quota regime, Asia has become a hub of textile trade as major exporting countries of the region instead of importing yarn from Pakistan as the developed nations did, have invested heavily in their spinning industries to produce yarn.
Pakistani spinners were caught on the wrong foot as they invested heavily in spinning during the last eight years while their market in countries like Japan, the US, European Union and Hong Kong weakened after the textile trade was made quota-free at the start of 2005. They are in trouble now because they have failed to judge the change in the world’s textile trade.
Most of the textile trade is now concentrated in Asia with low-cost countries China, India, Bangladesh and Vietnam and even Cambodia rapidly capturing the value-added textile markets vacated by developed nations due to high cost of production. China, India and Bangladesh having a solid value-added textile base have invested heavily in the spinning sector to cater to the increasing yarn needs of their value-added textiles.
Thus, Pakistan gradually lost the yarn market as the Asian manufacturers that replaced the manufacturers from developed countries produced their own yarn. Pakistan, in the meantime, invested more in its spinning and fabric industry during the last one decade and completely neglected the value-added sector.
Of the $4 billion investment made in the textile sector from June 1999 to October 2006, more than 50 per cent went to spinning, 25 per cent to fabric and a major chunk of the remaining to dyeing and finishing. Only nominal investment was made in the knitting or garments’ sectors.
The much-touted Textile Vision 2005 was declared highly successful by both the industry and the government as the envisaged investment in textiles was achieved. However, they failed to realise that the investment in textiles was in the wrong sectors.
The vision envisaged higher investment in the knitwear and garments’ sectors, which did not actually the case. Textile experts have cautioned that the spinning and weaving industries of the country would not be able to survive until the yarn and fabric are consumed locally to produce value-added products for exports. They said the spinners could not obtain the same quantum of orders that they used to obtain from the importers in the developed countries. The developed countries had mostly opted out of yarn production that is the lowest value textile product.
The developing countries in Asia, they added, had the same cost structure as that of Pakistan. In fact, Bangladesh has a disadvantage as it has to import cotton to produce yarn, even then its yarn industry is flourishing as total yarn produced is consumed locally.
Textile exports from China have more than doubled from $55 billion in 2005 to $130 billion, but it is also consuming mostly its own spun yarn. Pakistani yarn exports to China have increased substantially in recent years, but the gap created by absence of orders from the developed countries has not been filled.
The yarn rates are also under pressure as China, Bangladesh and Indonesia are low-cost yarn producers and they do not pay the price that the local spinners used to get from developed economies.
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